2008-09-05 Brilliant

The subtitle `The Life and Legend of Robin Smith' defines precisely and concisely the subject of `High Endeavours', where though the life was brief and cut short, the legend is lengthy and carries on. `High Endeavours' is a biography of Robin Smith written over a period of many years by his schoolboy friend and early climbing partner Jimmy Cruickshank. It was short-listed for the 2006 Boardman-Tasker Award - and if I had been a panel judge I would have insisted it won. `High Endeavours' is a brilliant book about a brilliant man.

Robin Smith was only 23 years of age when he and Wilf Noyce fell to their deaths in the Pamirs when descending after a successful ascent of Pik Garmo. Robin, a Scot, had been invited onto a joint UK-Soviet meet in 1962 led by John Hunt to whom Robin had been proposed for selection as being "without a doubt the hardest man this side of the Border". Such reputation stemmed from Robin's bold fierce exploits climbing under the most appalling conditions with minimum gear. Over his short climbing career he gained an unsurpassed stature and status that lives on. By 1962 his natural talent and technical skills leading to dozens of first ascents on rock and ice in Scotland were widely recognised and respected, he had made raids South to poach new routes from awe-struck locals including two in a single day on Scafell, and in the Alps his performances had won him a formidable record of achievements including the first British ascent of the Walker Spur.

Jimmy Cruickshank has collected details from many sources including personal contacts with Robin's family, his friends and fellow climbers who knew Robin, and from commentators of the mountaineering community and various articles in climbing journals, and from Robin's own writings. In addition to climbing and mountaineering coverage Cruickshank develops a verbal personality portrait of Robin as always irrepressible, often irreverent, and occasionally irritating, but generally liked by all. In doing so he records Robin's brilliant intellectual capacity and academic accomplishments with reference to university tutors - Robin had been accepted to undertake PhD studies in philosophy when he was killed.

`High Endeavours' is divided into three main parts plus an epilogue with memories of family and close associates, together with acknowledgements, various notes, bibliography, glossary, and a table and appendix of Robin Smith's first ascents. Within the main content the first part: `An Apprentice No More: 1938-58' covers his early existence, introduction to mountains, preliminary scrambles, first climbs, launching of Alpine career and university life. The second part: `Tales of Adventure and Smith the Man: 1958-60' embraces great rock and ice performances in a combination that is almost an anthology. There are many of Robin's own roguish and humorous contributions including my favourites: `The Bat and the Wicked' telling of the first ascent of The Bat with Dougal Haston; and recollections and renditions by Jimmy Marshall from a glorious winter week on Ben Nevis. There is much more - but to say more could spoil it for readers - sufficient to record that quotations from Robin's writings, submissions and judgements of others, and Jimmy Cruickshank's disclosures, commentaries and sensitive tributes to his friend make terrific reading. For Part 3: `The Pamirs 1960-62' there is an account of the Pamirs meet with information on Wilf Noyce as well as the lead up, the undertaking and the outcome of this ill-fated expedition.

Over his short life Robin Smith was an inspiration to other climbers, and few would argue he is less than the greatest climber Scotland has ever produced. He created routes at the highest prevailing grades of his day and many are considered `classics' by the present generation. It is a matter of surprise that no biography was written until Jimmy Cruickshank's publication. It is unlikely there could be a better one - a brilliant man and a brilliant book.